We dispatched cousin Monique back to Cornwall and walked the well-branded neighbourhoods. Grafton Street had at least eight musicians along it included a truly sensational pop-folk band Keywest. They garnered quite the crowd, and we left with three of their CD’s. A handful of solo artists, and others session bands were discovered along streets and at pubs with some raucous sounds out of the Temple Bar district.
Christchurch Cathedral was a medieval delight, and I loved the Irish Rock’n’roll museum, and the Irish literature museum. As a Nation, Ireland is truly punching well above its weight class through the written and soundscapes. Melissa and Teresa were on their own for the Guiness Factory Tour. While Matthew and I chose to raise a glass to one of Ireland’s most colourful playwrights, Brendan Behan, at Harkin’s, one of his favourite bars.
3 nights in Wicklow brought us to the countryside. We stayed in a remote lodge near the Wicklow Mountains. Drove through the Wicklow Gap and passed a more spectacular section of the route on our final day. Our first monastic Centre visit was to Glendalough where a sixth century holy pilgrim town headed by Saint Kevin once flourished. A thirty-meter round tower remains standing, accompanied by a cemetery and several stone churches.
We used Wicklow as a base to drive south to Kilkenny and its eleventh century castle on the banks of the River Nore. So many historic buildings there including the Black Abbey with its stunning stained-glass windows. It is a walkable town and the four of us separated to find our personal favourites. Kilkenny is home to a great hurling dynasty, and year after year – they are the team to beat. This towns statue is “Dedicated to all who hurl for Kilkenny.” Will see how they do in next weeks all-Ireland semi-final.
Although not on our original itinerary, we made a detour into the midlands to visit Ailish’s partner (Sofiia’s) Mother and Brother. We missed Grandma Svetlana and sister Amalia who were at our house in British Columbia for Sofiia’s graduation from Thompson Rivers University - Congratulations Sofiia! Our trip to Longford was a stop filled with emotions as we walk along paths crossed by famine starved children in the 1850’s. They walked along the canals that led the way to Dublin to board ships to new lands should they beat the odds and survive. Impossible times lasted for another eight decades as persecution of Catholics, employment discrimination, and continued poverty emptied both the countryside and the cities. It was said by our guide Tiernan and concurred online on that Ireland is the only country in Europe to have a population less than two hundred years ago. Thank you to this town, open-hearted residents in Longford and other Irish towns who are housing migrants from Ukraine, Eastern Europe and a few African nations seeking protection during unsavoury times back home.
Galway lived up to its reputation as one of Ireland’s great cultural Centres, so much so that we extended three nights here to four! Like Wicklow, we opted for a self-catering flat, this one with three bedrooms which proved useful as both Matthew and Teresa were coming down with a nesty feeckin ting. They appreciated their own personal space. But that did not slow the activities that included more trad music, and a ferry to Inishmaan (one of the Aran Islands). We walked by stone forts and homes and enjoyed a Guiness at one of only two open businesses on the island. Hey - what is that big yellow thing in the sky, it has not shown up too much yet. Westport will remain on the wish list for our next visit. It was a town we had not considered but kept hearing amazing stories about it. We had the best of the town when we met up with our distant cousin Marie-Clare and her daughters Gracie and Sarah.
We began to appreciate Irish castles as we crossed into Limerick. Bunratty, Rathkeale, Desmond, and later Blarney. Each was in a different state of ruin or restoration. Self-discovery, interpretive panels, or full-on guided options were available and taken. We were not the only ones to appreciate Adare. It took Matthew forty-five minutes to drive 3.5 km. Btw – great driving Matthew. Can’t believe those roads are for both ways!
Killarney proved to be a delightful base for our stay in County Kerry. It has long been a dream of mine to drive the Ring of Kerry Road, so that is what we did on our first full day. The drive began at dawn to beat the coaches along what might be Ireland’s most popular tour route. First Tralee (windmill and canals) – then to Brandon Point (red-billed choughs, fulmars, and dolphins from a cliffside viewpoint) – next a spectacular drive across Conor Pass between the Dingle Mountains – fish and chips in Dingle - and then around Slea Drive and its cliff and beach peninsula. We then headed to the Kerry Peninsula. Highlights being the Cliffs of Kerry and a seafood dinner in Waterville. By that point it was 9 pm and we still had Killarney National Park left undone. With our next full day, we returned Killarney Park to appreciate it in the daylight and decided to return to the Kerry Peninsula to see what we missed. Glad to visit Sneem, a quintessential Irish village ringed by green mountains.
We spent two hours exploring its streams and curiosity shops. Killarney boasts a great nightly music scene and reminded us of the talent that lives strongly in the west and south.
We are not ready to leave the South and book into Dingle Bay for five extra nights. Enjoyed the Blasket Islands Sealife Safari where we saw grey seals, large colonies of Atlantic Puffins and other less seen seabirds, leaping dolphins, two minke whales, and two Humpback whales – what an adventure. Attended a folk concert with fiddle, vocals, guitar, uilleann pipes, and storytelling as well as a small pub music session.
Stunning Harry Clarke stained-glass windows in the Arts Centre in Dingle. Matthew must leave Ireland now after 7 weeks on the road, but Teresa and I stay on.
Cork was our last multi-night stop in the south before taking Irish Rail back to Dublin, and on to Belfast, Derry, and our return to our relatives in Rostrevor/Mayobridge/Warrenpoint. This was an urban experience with a range of derelict to opulent. It lacked the nighttime appeal for us but delivered in the daytime instead. The city was walkable, and no agenda needed to be set. Each winding street unveiled shops, statues, and slice of life family outings. The Cathedral and the colourful houses below were especially eye-catching.
The best day was when we took the train 25 minutes to Cobh (Cove). Historic as the last port of call for the doomed Titanic voyage. The ‘Queenstown Story’ at the Heritage Centre detailed this tragedy and that of another ship that left this harbour on a Grand passage – the Lusitania. There was non-event filled journeys in and from this port including emigration ships, relief deliveries, and Cunard or White Star Liner Cruises. A visit to Spike Island infamous for its Gaol that held children as young as eleven who stole bread or other necessities during the great famine as well as political prisoners and those deemed criminals for offences against the crown or country. An emotional day, but one that was an important piece in my understanding of Irish history. Of course, as the granddaughter of Irish Emigrants, it is part of my history too.